永平寺 Eihei-ji: Temple of Eternal Peace
Established in 1244 by Kigen Dōgen, Eihei-ji, Temple of Eternal Peace, is one of two main temples of the Sōtō sect of Zen Buddhism - and Japan's most active meditation monastery since the late 16th century. It's about 30 minutes by bus from Fukui, which is close to the western coast of Honshu and it is home to about 50 elders and 250 black-robed trainees.
Arrive early, if you can, especially during the warmer months when crowds of visitors come.
You'll pay ¥900 for the complete tour, you'll carry your shoes with you in a plastic bag and you'll do your best to get out of the way of the young novices who always seem to be busy doing something - moving from one building to another, climbing stairs, ringing gongs, thumping drums, chanting. Sometimes there's noise, more often there's not. All you'll hear, if you're there at the right time, is the sound of silence.
This serene community, built entirely of wood and connected by covered walkways, is set on the slopes of a mountain, surrounded by cedars. As I discovered recently, to my delight, it's moss-green in summer, serenaded by cicadas and rippling water. In winter, snow arrives to transform the complex into a glistening white mountainscape.
For any visitor to Japan, Eihei-ji is an unforgettable experience.
Established in 1244 by Kigen Dōgen, Eihei-ji, Temple of Eternal Peace, is one of two main temples of the Sōtō sect of Zen Buddhism - and Japan's most active meditation monastery since the late 16th century. It's about 30 minutes by bus from Fukui, which is close to the western coast of Honshu and it is home to about 50 elders and 250 black-robed trainees.
Arrive early, if you can, especially during the warmer months when crowds of visitors come.
You'll pay ¥900 for the complete tour, you'll carry your shoes with you in a plastic bag and you'll do your best to get out of the way of the young novices who always seem to be busy doing something - moving from one building to another, climbing stairs, ringing gongs, thumping drums, chanting. Sometimes there's noise, more often there's not. All you'll hear, if you're there at the right time, is the sound of silence.
This serene community, built entirely of wood and connected by covered walkways, is set on the slopes of a mountain, surrounded by cedars. As I discovered recently, to my delight, it's moss-green in summer, serenaded by cicadas and rippling water. In winter, snow arrives to transform the complex into a glistening white mountainscape.
For any visitor to Japan, Eihei-ji is an unforgettable experience.
